Thursday 18 June 2015

So You Want To Be a Paisa? How to Live Like a Local - Part 2

So I hope by now you got Step 1 nailed and are now following Colombian punctuality guidelines - or lack there of!!

On to Step 2 - this is where it gets good and we start making some dollar dollar.


Step 2: Entrepreneurship



Paisas are renowned for being business people.

In fact walking and interacting with people on a daily basis is like being on Dragon's Den. No matter where you go or who you talk to - the Paisa will probably have something to sell. Mention you are looking for something for the house or how you really like that t-shirt and you will find out that lucky you...this person not only knows where you can get them but also sells them personally.

Speak to someone for 5 minutes and you will find that they are entrepreneur. These people "gots the skills to pay the bills". For example, I have a friend who is an accountant, has set up an alcohol home delivery service, sells swimwear, installs security cameras, repairs computers and has time to make jewellery.


Coud you not have arrived on time to pitch???




What I really like about Paisa's is that they are an enterprising bunch. If there is a buck to be made they will grab it. Take for example the women that emerge to sell black plastic bags when it starts to rain - or the guys who clean car windscreens at traffic lights. Students going to university can be seen with a little lunchbox of sweets, chocolate and snacks which they can sell to friends and classmates at lunchtime. 



Paisas are hardworking and they aren't afraid to get their hands dirty to provide for themselves. Some sellers maybe looking to make an extra bit of cash to be able to buy a new t-shirt or two, while others are selling to feed their children. These are extremes but people don't sit back and wait for handouts - something that is nice to see coming from a country where social welfare and handouts are all too common. 


There isnt anywhere in Medellin where the Paisa Entrepreneur cannot be seen - but to enjoy them in all their glory you need to take a trip to the Centro. Walking the streets of the Centro is like running the gauntlet of salespeople and food stalls. The Centro is a magical place, where you can find anything and everything you could ever wanted or didn't want - from blue jeans to inflatable paddling pools to the latest "authentic", "hand stolen" cell phone.  








DVDs and sunglasses are amongst the most popular sells. You can get most DVDs for under $1 before they appear in cinemas. And if you want the latest Porn movies, well the place to go is next to the Church in the centre - yes the sellers have decided that the best location for selling their dirty movies is next to God's House - probably some method to this madness - dont have to go far to confess your sin.


Nice Selection

Next to the Church....shame on You

He carries this on his back


It really does seem like everyone is selling. Centro Comerciales or malls are everywhere with endless tiny stalls packed together. Basically there is a Centro Comercial for every imaginal product - shoes, technology, dresses, bikinis, textiles, jeans. There's probably a hundred people selling the same thing - which to me is a bit strange. Dusting the cobwebs from my business degree ,we were taught to be successful you need to differentiate from your competition. But here everyone sells the same thing at the same price - but everyone seems to sell and make money. So screw my lecturers - follow Paisa Entrepreneurship 101 - you want to be exactly like your competition but sell the Adidas jersey with 4 stripes and not 5.


All originals of course

Some people will try to sell everything - herbal remedies, DVDs, socks, football jerseys and remote controls. While others will focus on one thing - hats. If you are going to do something - Do it well!!
Hats


Lots of suspicious things here


Wherever you go you will here the ubiquitous "A la Orden"..this is a baffling catch all phrase which means (to name a few):


  • Hello
  • Come have a look
  • Yes we do sell that
  • Can I help you with a size
  • Yes we do have that size
  • I can take your payment
  • You are welcome
  • and.... Please come again



But you dont even need to go to the Centro and shop like a sucker because.... they will come to you!! About 2/3 times a day I hear the beautiful sound of  "Mango, Mango, Mango" as the mobile fruit shop comes around. This isnt any Postman Pat style mobile shop on wheels. Its basically a cart full to the brim of mangos, bananas, oranges, papayas, pineapples and all sorts of fruit and veg - which meanders around the neighborhood selling to peoples' front doors. There are about five carts which do the rounds in my neighborhood. The produce is usually better than the supermarket too - with no lineups. But you dont just need fruit - you need arepas, gas, plastic bags, a remote control cover,  tea towels - they are all here.


Pineapple Cart


My favorite mobile cart in my neighborhood is the interior design cart. Which to my eye sells mirrors, painitng and a few tables. You know that feeling when you are sitting on the sofa wishing you had a mirror - well here you dont need to even get in a car and head to Ikea. Ikea is coming to you...and its a cart on wheels!


Mobile IKEA

So we have realised there is money to be made. But to be Paisa you really want to make sure you are covering all those markets out there. Sell to the people on the bus, sell to the children leaving school, sell to people leaving the church, sell to people stuck in traffic. In every opportunity lies a business.



All Paisa business people usually have the same traits. Confidence, great talkers, jokers, ridiculously hardworking and with a great eye for a deal. You may think you are getting a steal but realise this person hasn't been out selling for 16 hours to not make a profit.


Unfortunately I usually get treated to Gringo Prices in places where there is no price advertised which is annoying but kind of expected. If you can make another few dollars from an unknowing foreigner, why not....sure they will have a nice story to tell when they get home.



There are so many weird and wonderful businesses here in Medellin. To give you a taste of the rarer or niche kinds here are a few of my favorite businesses I have seen in Medellin and a few of my future jobs I am sure.

(1) Sell Mobile/ Cell Phone Minutes - Minutos

For some reason to call a different network provider on your phone here is really expensive. So what are  you going to do - make sure all your friends and family are on the same network? NO! This is Medellin. The Minutos business person has bought a phone and usually pays a rate that allows unlimited calls. The stall owner has usually about 3 shite phones - no iPhones or Galaxys here - think more Snake than Angry Birds. These phones are attached to the owner by chains or rope - think job security. The peson will usually have a high-vis vest or some flag that say they sell minutos at 100/200 pesos.... Much cheaper than to call using your own phone! Ok these people are making maybe $0.05/$0.10 a pop but it all adds up. Plus the Minutos People usually have a little mobile cart that has single chewing gums, single cigarettes and coffees so they are branching out and seeing opportunities. The lighter is also on a chain -  so don't get any ideas.


You only get a meter freedom, better not mention that STI


(2) Guinea Pig Gambling Agent
While in Ireland we are used to Paddy Power shops on every corner - we do enjoy a bet us Irish, we don't even care if its a real horse a computer game horse is all the same -  in Medellin there are no bookmakers...officially. Take a walk to Parque Berrio in the Centro and you will find a game which hasn't yet crossed the pond. Guinea Pig Gambling. The game is pretty simple. In the centre is a guinea pig with a plastic bowl over it - and it is surrounded by a circle of other plastic bowls - each with  a number and a little door. So you put your bet - coins or notes on which number you are going for. The boss man then shakes the guinea pigs bowl a little - disorientate it - then whichever bowl the guinea pig takes off into - winner winner. Brilliant in its simplicity and hats off to whoever came up with this.


Shake the shite out of it

Not that fecking way



(3) Traffic Light Entertainment Provider

Everybody gets bored stuck in traffic and hearing Uptown Funk for the millionth time on the radio isnt cutting it...you need real entertainment!! How about someone juggling knives? On a unicycle?..yessir Medellin has you covered. Think of it as Colombia Has Got Talent...live in your car. At most busy traffic lights there is a group of people to entertain you. Some go more simple than others with a bit of break dancing, twirling a stick, rolling that weird ball around their body. But some go all out. I have seen a guy hang a tightrope across the traffic, climb on top, grab some sticks, light them on fire, juggle them all while balancing a football on his head. I can see it now. Cirque de Soleil - Streets of Medellin!! Some of these entertainers are amazing and its sad that for risking breaking a leg or third-degree burns they probably make a dollar or less - sometimes they do it in vain as all the cars speed off the minute the lights turn.



He will probably make no money - just risking a broken neck









(I have to mention this. One of the most bizarre things I have seen sold in all my time traveling is that people will sell "the body of christ", bread of life, eucharist, holy bread, church food. A little bag can be found next to biscuits, Doritos and peanuts on a few select carts - maybe you missed mass last Sunday?!? I have been told they haven't been blessed - but maybe you are in the mood for a dry wafer? Hey if you are -  again the Paisa has got your back. )


Shite...I missed Mass


So there we have Step 2. 

If you want to be like a Paisa you better get that business hat on and start brainstorming. Because there's money to be made!! With that Im off to buy some guinea pigs and a tight rope...see you on Dragons Den soon.









Monday 1 June 2015

So You Want To Be a Paisa? - Part 1 Of My Guide To Living Like a Local!

Ok so I cant change the fact I am an outsider or "gringo".

Unless I go down the Michael Jackson route - the blue eyes give it away -  no matter how aggresively I get the tan on. Obviously life here is different so in order to fit in and feel comfortable in Medellin, it is important to learn the way of the Paisa (person of Medellin) !! Here is the first part of my guide to living like a local.

My New Look


Disclaimer: Sorry to my Colombian friends if there are a few generalisations...but you guys think all the Irish are running around drunk after leprechauns looking for that pot of gold (this is a view held by a lot people I meet around the world... *cough* Americans *cough*)

To start Im going to devote a full post to step 1...this is vital !

Step 1: Punctuality

Translation - Be on time and Be a good person and Be very good-looking



I have a love/hate relationship with Colombians' view on punctuality.

I like how they are never in a rush and seeing a Paisa in a hurry is like a solar eclipse...doesn't happen often, is amazing to see, but it may turn you blind.

For example - its 8:05 a.m. You were meant to be in work 5 minutes ago but you just need that coffee  or tinto to get you going.
From my experience what usually happens is you get into Starbucks fast, get that bad boy to go and risk third degree burns sprinting on the streets with the questionable safety of the to-go lid.



But here in Medellin?? Hold up...I'm going to enjoy that coffee and you know what, throw in an empanada or pastry. (Actually I'm surprised the slow pour coffee culture hasn't here arrived yet - wait is that a business idea !?!) This is  just an example of how Colombians are just more chilled out - enjoy the little things in life. Thats the positive box ticked...time to get on with the rant.

Oh Look Im late for work!
Firstly, I wouldn't say the Irish are extremely punctual - 5 minutes before or after is acceptable  - maybe with a quick text to reassure the boss or friend. Safe to say we aren't on German levels of punctuality - take that Merkel!!

One of the things you need to get used to here is that Paisas wont arrive on time. 9 times out of 10 you are left waiting. There is an acceptable range of being 30 minutes late here...without needing to explain yourself!
So now when I arrange to meet friends I ask "Is that 8:30 Irish time or Colombian time?". Hint - Its always Colombian!! I'm going to be honest - I know they are going to be late but unfortunately I still arrive on time or early...which leads to a nice wait.

(On another point - seeing a Colombian and unsuspecting German arrange a fixed time or appointment is one of lifes little pleasures...should you tell the German ??? Nope hahaha).


Rudi and Carlos are going to go to the hairdressers together


Ok...so they aren't the best time keepers but you see they are crafty people these Paisas. The language has allowed them to bullshit and trick us gullible gringos. Here are a few common terms used by Paisas and their literal and true meanings.


  • Ya salgo 
    • Definition -- "I have already left!"
    • Expectation -- the person is en route!
    • Truth -- I have decided I will leave at some future point...but I also have to have something to eat and finish watching these funny videos on YouTube.
  • Ya estoy llegando 
    • Definition -- "I am already arriving!"
    • Expectation -- he/she is in the building. Lets get ready to wave and greet them! 
    • Truth -- the person is ready to leave their house...but has to touch up makeup or find the car keys or will shortly begin their 10 minute walk to the metro to begin the journey of 20 minutes to the meeting point.

In fact "ya" means already, it has already occured...in the past. I now know never trust anything including the world "ya" - think of it as the Irish equivalent of "2 seconds" or "2 minutes".

  • Ahorita 
    • Definition -- right now
    • Expectation -- this instant, immediately
    • Truth --  anywhere in a 30 min to 8 hour timeframe.
  • Ahorita mas tarde 
    • Definition -- right now later on (!?!)
    • Expectation -- soon, you wont wait too long.
    • Truth -- anywhere in 1 hour to 5 days timeframe.
  • _________
    • Definition -- Silence
    • Expectation -- Nothing left to say or clear up
    • Truth -- They aren't coming but they don't have the heart to tell you (aka they dont answer messages or calls but they are posting Selfies and Shakira videos on facebook :)

Yea Im Already at the Cinema - YA!!!




Actually it's all a bit endearing. I have a few friends who try their best to arrive on time - they never do but I like to think they are trying. It's like the Irish playing basketball - we have all the best intentions in the world, try our best...but we have to admit its not going to work out.

My favorite story to tell about Colombians and punctuality is when I had an interview for a language school last year. The interview was set for 7 a.m. (yes!! wtf...but they get going early here.) I knew this was bullshit but I went along with it.

Usually I would arrive 15 mins before an interview but here I went with 5 mins. 
So i arrived, introduced myself to the receptionist and said I was here to meet Señora Catarina. Her reply? 

"Ya ella esta llegando - Take a seat".

Tick rock...15 mins went by...30 mins...at 7:40 the Señora of the momento arrives - with a croissant in hand. 

"Ya hablamos"...another 10 mins went by...so at 7:50 the began the interview. 

After a few questions I got asked this - "As we are a professional school, punctuality is of extreme importance! Are you a punctual and trust worthy person ?"

I think a blood vessel burst in my head - this lady, a Colombian asking me am I punctual !?! After my near hour wait, politely I reassured the señora "Yes!"...to which she finished the last bite of her croissant.


Wait  - More proof you say??

Recently I went to see the new Avengers movie - the listed start time was 6:15 so I arrived at 6:10, got the trailers. So it was 6:15 and in a screen with about 100 seats there were 8 of us.

By the time the opening credits rolled I counted about 20. They continued to slowly filter  in. Amazingly around 40 mins in (and by this stage Iron Man had blew up a lot of shit!) still people were arriving in - popcorn and coke in hand - which makes me wonder - if you are already missing a quarter of the movie...do you really need to line up for a gallon of Postobon Manzana? As it turns out.. Yes!

It was worth missing half the Avengers!!



Other punctuality themed highlights:
- the line up of about 1,000 people outside the stadium.... 30 mins after the game has started!
If everyone pushes we will all get in faster

- the line up at every bank at 5:05 - even though the bank has closed at 5:00 - and complaining if they aren't left in :)

I do love line ups


So thus ends part one of my guide to being Paisa - Punctuality.

Its an endearing but frustrating trait of the Paisa...but it is how it is.

I like how they are chilled out, enjoying the slow Latin culture but its still a struggle to get used to. Nobody ever rushes; walking as if they are enjoying a summer stroll on the promenade - when in fact they had classes 10 minutes ago. (Strangely enough everyone in a car seems to be in a hurry. Also everyone leaves paying bills to last minute. Im beginning to think deep down the Paisa has a masochistic fetish for line ups.)



So Step 1 plays out like Step 1 in Alcoholics Anonymous - acceptance. Acceptance that people here will arrive late and admitting I am powerless to stop it. I think I have a bit to go to live like a local on this matter :)

Tune in soon for Part 2 - should be up in an hour, day,week...lets just say Ahorita. Whats the rush anyway !?!