Thursday, 18 June 2015

So You Want To Be a Paisa? How to Live Like a Local - Part 2

So I hope by now you got Step 1 nailed and are now following Colombian punctuality guidelines - or lack there of!!

On to Step 2 - this is where it gets good and we start making some dollar dollar.


Step 2: Entrepreneurship



Paisas are renowned for being business people.

In fact walking and interacting with people on a daily basis is like being on Dragon's Den. No matter where you go or who you talk to - the Paisa will probably have something to sell. Mention you are looking for something for the house or how you really like that t-shirt and you will find out that lucky you...this person not only knows where you can get them but also sells them personally.

Speak to someone for 5 minutes and you will find that they are entrepreneur. These people "gots the skills to pay the bills". For example, I have a friend who is an accountant, has set up an alcohol home delivery service, sells swimwear, installs security cameras, repairs computers and has time to make jewellery.


Coud you not have arrived on time to pitch???




What I really like about Paisa's is that they are an enterprising bunch. If there is a buck to be made they will grab it. Take for example the women that emerge to sell black plastic bags when it starts to rain - or the guys who clean car windscreens at traffic lights. Students going to university can be seen with a little lunchbox of sweets, chocolate and snacks which they can sell to friends and classmates at lunchtime. 



Paisas are hardworking and they aren't afraid to get their hands dirty to provide for themselves. Some sellers maybe looking to make an extra bit of cash to be able to buy a new t-shirt or two, while others are selling to feed their children. These are extremes but people don't sit back and wait for handouts - something that is nice to see coming from a country where social welfare and handouts are all too common. 


There isnt anywhere in Medellin where the Paisa Entrepreneur cannot be seen - but to enjoy them in all their glory you need to take a trip to the Centro. Walking the streets of the Centro is like running the gauntlet of salespeople and food stalls. The Centro is a magical place, where you can find anything and everything you could ever wanted or didn't want - from blue jeans to inflatable paddling pools to the latest "authentic", "hand stolen" cell phone.  








DVDs and sunglasses are amongst the most popular sells. You can get most DVDs for under $1 before they appear in cinemas. And if you want the latest Porn movies, well the place to go is next to the Church in the centre - yes the sellers have decided that the best location for selling their dirty movies is next to God's House - probably some method to this madness - dont have to go far to confess your sin.


Nice Selection

Next to the Church....shame on You

He carries this on his back


It really does seem like everyone is selling. Centro Comerciales or malls are everywhere with endless tiny stalls packed together. Basically there is a Centro Comercial for every imaginal product - shoes, technology, dresses, bikinis, textiles, jeans. There's probably a hundred people selling the same thing - which to me is a bit strange. Dusting the cobwebs from my business degree ,we were taught to be successful you need to differentiate from your competition. But here everyone sells the same thing at the same price - but everyone seems to sell and make money. So screw my lecturers - follow Paisa Entrepreneurship 101 - you want to be exactly like your competition but sell the Adidas jersey with 4 stripes and not 5.


All originals of course

Some people will try to sell everything - herbal remedies, DVDs, socks, football jerseys and remote controls. While others will focus on one thing - hats. If you are going to do something - Do it well!!
Hats


Lots of suspicious things here


Wherever you go you will here the ubiquitous "A la Orden"..this is a baffling catch all phrase which means (to name a few):


  • Hello
  • Come have a look
  • Yes we do sell that
  • Can I help you with a size
  • Yes we do have that size
  • I can take your payment
  • You are welcome
  • and.... Please come again



But you dont even need to go to the Centro and shop like a sucker because.... they will come to you!! About 2/3 times a day I hear the beautiful sound of  "Mango, Mango, Mango" as the mobile fruit shop comes around. This isnt any Postman Pat style mobile shop on wheels. Its basically a cart full to the brim of mangos, bananas, oranges, papayas, pineapples and all sorts of fruit and veg - which meanders around the neighborhood selling to peoples' front doors. There are about five carts which do the rounds in my neighborhood. The produce is usually better than the supermarket too - with no lineups. But you dont just need fruit - you need arepas, gas, plastic bags, a remote control cover,  tea towels - they are all here.


Pineapple Cart


My favorite mobile cart in my neighborhood is the interior design cart. Which to my eye sells mirrors, painitng and a few tables. You know that feeling when you are sitting on the sofa wishing you had a mirror - well here you dont need to even get in a car and head to Ikea. Ikea is coming to you...and its a cart on wheels!


Mobile IKEA

So we have realised there is money to be made. But to be Paisa you really want to make sure you are covering all those markets out there. Sell to the people on the bus, sell to the children leaving school, sell to people leaving the church, sell to people stuck in traffic. In every opportunity lies a business.



All Paisa business people usually have the same traits. Confidence, great talkers, jokers, ridiculously hardworking and with a great eye for a deal. You may think you are getting a steal but realise this person hasn't been out selling for 16 hours to not make a profit.


Unfortunately I usually get treated to Gringo Prices in places where there is no price advertised which is annoying but kind of expected. If you can make another few dollars from an unknowing foreigner, why not....sure they will have a nice story to tell when they get home.



There are so many weird and wonderful businesses here in Medellin. To give you a taste of the rarer or niche kinds here are a few of my favorite businesses I have seen in Medellin and a few of my future jobs I am sure.

(1) Sell Mobile/ Cell Phone Minutes - Minutos

For some reason to call a different network provider on your phone here is really expensive. So what are  you going to do - make sure all your friends and family are on the same network? NO! This is Medellin. The Minutos business person has bought a phone and usually pays a rate that allows unlimited calls. The stall owner has usually about 3 shite phones - no iPhones or Galaxys here - think more Snake than Angry Birds. These phones are attached to the owner by chains or rope - think job security. The peson will usually have a high-vis vest or some flag that say they sell minutos at 100/200 pesos.... Much cheaper than to call using your own phone! Ok these people are making maybe $0.05/$0.10 a pop but it all adds up. Plus the Minutos People usually have a little mobile cart that has single chewing gums, single cigarettes and coffees so they are branching out and seeing opportunities. The lighter is also on a chain -  so don't get any ideas.


You only get a meter freedom, better not mention that STI


(2) Guinea Pig Gambling Agent
While in Ireland we are used to Paddy Power shops on every corner - we do enjoy a bet us Irish, we don't even care if its a real horse a computer game horse is all the same -  in Medellin there are no bookmakers...officially. Take a walk to Parque Berrio in the Centro and you will find a game which hasn't yet crossed the pond. Guinea Pig Gambling. The game is pretty simple. In the centre is a guinea pig with a plastic bowl over it - and it is surrounded by a circle of other plastic bowls - each with  a number and a little door. So you put your bet - coins or notes on which number you are going for. The boss man then shakes the guinea pigs bowl a little - disorientate it - then whichever bowl the guinea pig takes off into - winner winner. Brilliant in its simplicity and hats off to whoever came up with this.


Shake the shite out of it

Not that fecking way



(3) Traffic Light Entertainment Provider

Everybody gets bored stuck in traffic and hearing Uptown Funk for the millionth time on the radio isnt cutting it...you need real entertainment!! How about someone juggling knives? On a unicycle?..yessir Medellin has you covered. Think of it as Colombia Has Got Talent...live in your car. At most busy traffic lights there is a group of people to entertain you. Some go more simple than others with a bit of break dancing, twirling a stick, rolling that weird ball around their body. But some go all out. I have seen a guy hang a tightrope across the traffic, climb on top, grab some sticks, light them on fire, juggle them all while balancing a football on his head. I can see it now. Cirque de Soleil - Streets of Medellin!! Some of these entertainers are amazing and its sad that for risking breaking a leg or third-degree burns they probably make a dollar or less - sometimes they do it in vain as all the cars speed off the minute the lights turn.



He will probably make no money - just risking a broken neck









(I have to mention this. One of the most bizarre things I have seen sold in all my time traveling is that people will sell "the body of christ", bread of life, eucharist, holy bread, church food. A little bag can be found next to biscuits, Doritos and peanuts on a few select carts - maybe you missed mass last Sunday?!? I have been told they haven't been blessed - but maybe you are in the mood for a dry wafer? Hey if you are -  again the Paisa has got your back. )


Shite...I missed Mass


So there we have Step 2. 

If you want to be like a Paisa you better get that business hat on and start brainstorming. Because there's money to be made!! With that Im off to buy some guinea pigs and a tight rope...see you on Dragons Den soon.









Monday, 1 June 2015

So You Want To Be a Paisa? - Part 1 Of My Guide To Living Like a Local!

Ok so I cant change the fact I am an outsider or "gringo".

Unless I go down the Michael Jackson route - the blue eyes give it away -  no matter how aggresively I get the tan on. Obviously life here is different so in order to fit in and feel comfortable in Medellin, it is important to learn the way of the Paisa (person of Medellin) !! Here is the first part of my guide to living like a local.

My New Look


Disclaimer: Sorry to my Colombian friends if there are a few generalisations...but you guys think all the Irish are running around drunk after leprechauns looking for that pot of gold (this is a view held by a lot people I meet around the world... *cough* Americans *cough*)

To start Im going to devote a full post to step 1...this is vital !

Step 1: Punctuality

Translation - Be on time and Be a good person and Be very good-looking



I have a love/hate relationship with Colombians' view on punctuality.

I like how they are never in a rush and seeing a Paisa in a hurry is like a solar eclipse...doesn't happen often, is amazing to see, but it may turn you blind.

For example - its 8:05 a.m. You were meant to be in work 5 minutes ago but you just need that coffee  or tinto to get you going.
From my experience what usually happens is you get into Starbucks fast, get that bad boy to go and risk third degree burns sprinting on the streets with the questionable safety of the to-go lid.



But here in Medellin?? Hold up...I'm going to enjoy that coffee and you know what, throw in an empanada or pastry. (Actually I'm surprised the slow pour coffee culture hasn't here arrived yet - wait is that a business idea !?!) This is  just an example of how Colombians are just more chilled out - enjoy the little things in life. Thats the positive box ticked...time to get on with the rant.

Oh Look Im late for work!
Firstly, I wouldn't say the Irish are extremely punctual - 5 minutes before or after is acceptable  - maybe with a quick text to reassure the boss or friend. Safe to say we aren't on German levels of punctuality - take that Merkel!!

One of the things you need to get used to here is that Paisas wont arrive on time. 9 times out of 10 you are left waiting. There is an acceptable range of being 30 minutes late here...without needing to explain yourself!
So now when I arrange to meet friends I ask "Is that 8:30 Irish time or Colombian time?". Hint - Its always Colombian!! I'm going to be honest - I know they are going to be late but unfortunately I still arrive on time or early...which leads to a nice wait.

(On another point - seeing a Colombian and unsuspecting German arrange a fixed time or appointment is one of lifes little pleasures...should you tell the German ??? Nope hahaha).


Rudi and Carlos are going to go to the hairdressers together


Ok...so they aren't the best time keepers but you see they are crafty people these Paisas. The language has allowed them to bullshit and trick us gullible gringos. Here are a few common terms used by Paisas and their literal and true meanings.


  • Ya salgo 
    • Definition -- "I have already left!"
    • Expectation -- the person is en route!
    • Truth -- I have decided I will leave at some future point...but I also have to have something to eat and finish watching these funny videos on YouTube.
  • Ya estoy llegando 
    • Definition -- "I am already arriving!"
    • Expectation -- he/she is in the building. Lets get ready to wave and greet them! 
    • Truth -- the person is ready to leave their house...but has to touch up makeup or find the car keys or will shortly begin their 10 minute walk to the metro to begin the journey of 20 minutes to the meeting point.

In fact "ya" means already, it has already occured...in the past. I now know never trust anything including the world "ya" - think of it as the Irish equivalent of "2 seconds" or "2 minutes".

  • Ahorita 
    • Definition -- right now
    • Expectation -- this instant, immediately
    • Truth --  anywhere in a 30 min to 8 hour timeframe.
  • Ahorita mas tarde 
    • Definition -- right now later on (!?!)
    • Expectation -- soon, you wont wait too long.
    • Truth -- anywhere in 1 hour to 5 days timeframe.
  • _________
    • Definition -- Silence
    • Expectation -- Nothing left to say or clear up
    • Truth -- They aren't coming but they don't have the heart to tell you (aka they dont answer messages or calls but they are posting Selfies and Shakira videos on facebook :)

Yea Im Already at the Cinema - YA!!!




Actually it's all a bit endearing. I have a few friends who try their best to arrive on time - they never do but I like to think they are trying. It's like the Irish playing basketball - we have all the best intentions in the world, try our best...but we have to admit its not going to work out.

My favorite story to tell about Colombians and punctuality is when I had an interview for a language school last year. The interview was set for 7 a.m. (yes!! wtf...but they get going early here.) I knew this was bullshit but I went along with it.

Usually I would arrive 15 mins before an interview but here I went with 5 mins. 
So i arrived, introduced myself to the receptionist and said I was here to meet Señora Catarina. Her reply? 

"Ya ella esta llegando - Take a seat".

Tick rock...15 mins went by...30 mins...at 7:40 the Señora of the momento arrives - with a croissant in hand. 

"Ya hablamos"...another 10 mins went by...so at 7:50 the began the interview. 

After a few questions I got asked this - "As we are a professional school, punctuality is of extreme importance! Are you a punctual and trust worthy person ?"

I think a blood vessel burst in my head - this lady, a Colombian asking me am I punctual !?! After my near hour wait, politely I reassured the señora "Yes!"...to which she finished the last bite of her croissant.


Wait  - More proof you say??

Recently I went to see the new Avengers movie - the listed start time was 6:15 so I arrived at 6:10, got the trailers. So it was 6:15 and in a screen with about 100 seats there were 8 of us.

By the time the opening credits rolled I counted about 20. They continued to slowly filter  in. Amazingly around 40 mins in (and by this stage Iron Man had blew up a lot of shit!) still people were arriving in - popcorn and coke in hand - which makes me wonder - if you are already missing a quarter of the movie...do you really need to line up for a gallon of Postobon Manzana? As it turns out.. Yes!

It was worth missing half the Avengers!!



Other punctuality themed highlights:
- the line up of about 1,000 people outside the stadium.... 30 mins after the game has started!
If everyone pushes we will all get in faster

- the line up at every bank at 5:05 - even though the bank has closed at 5:00 - and complaining if they aren't left in :)

I do love line ups


So thus ends part one of my guide to being Paisa - Punctuality.

Its an endearing but frustrating trait of the Paisa...but it is how it is.

I like how they are chilled out, enjoying the slow Latin culture but its still a struggle to get used to. Nobody ever rushes; walking as if they are enjoying a summer stroll on the promenade - when in fact they had classes 10 minutes ago. (Strangely enough everyone in a car seems to be in a hurry. Also everyone leaves paying bills to last minute. Im beginning to think deep down the Paisa has a masochistic fetish for line ups.)



So Step 1 plays out like Step 1 in Alcoholics Anonymous - acceptance. Acceptance that people here will arrive late and admitting I am powerless to stop it. I think I have a bit to go to live like a local on this matter :)

Tune in soon for Part 2 - should be up in an hour, day,week...lets just say Ahorita. Whats the rush anyway !?!

Tuesday, 19 May 2015

"Are there any cinemas?" - and some other questions my Dad would ask!

So here I am living in Medellin, lets be honest not a lot of people know much about Colombia, never mind Medellin.

Medellin -Estadio neighborhood



In this post I am going to try give a bit more information on where I call home. My Skype calls with my parents involve the usual motherly dominated interrogation - the hard hitting stuff like "Are you happy?" and "What the feck are you doing with your life?" - but also involves a few amazing interludes from my Dad, who has always been quite the question master. Former highlights of his included the question of whether there would be anywhere open in Vancouver at 7 p.m. (yes that Vancouver which is a cosmopolitan city of 1 million people) to get them an auld carton of milk for a cup of tea when they arrived to visit. First world problem this isn't...this is an Irish Parent Problem. Anyway back to Medellin!!


Medellin is the capital of Antioquia and second biggest city in Colombia with a population of approximately 2,000,000 people. In 2013 Medellin was named as the "Most Innovative City" in the world due to its modern transport system and redevelopment of poorer areas. So in short its a very modern city, full of opportunities and development. It is not a little town full of whitewashed walls, with people traveling on horses and one local shop - this is the impression my Dad had.

My Dad's view of Medellin


Anyway in order to describe what Medellin is like I have decided to do so by answering questions my dad would ask. A number of these are actual questions so I will leave it up to you to figure them out. I also have to start with this cracker.

 Are there any Cinemas?
Yes, in fact there are dozens - just like in Europe and Canada. Most cinemas show movies in English with subtitles but also dubbed in Spanish. Its always funny to hear Spanish actors doing the voices of famous people - in fact its a bit weird. Ticket prices range from $3 to $7 depending on whether you are in a fancy neighborhood or not. But the best thing is Cheap Wednesdays where all the movies are half price - aka I saw the Avengers for $2!! A bit better than Ireland where a trip to the cinema costs the same as an apartment. People here are mad for the popcorn too - and hot dogs! The Colombians haven't really got the deal of arriving on time for movies yet but I will go into their punctuality issues in another post!


Are you able to find places to eat?
Medellin has restaurants of every style and price range. Breakfast and Lunch places can be found everywhere serving typical Colombia food. But there are also lots of Italian, French, Mexican restaurants. They also have a few sushi places - which are ok but expensive and are just depressing after living in Vancouver. Food can be found everywhere - whether its fresh fruits, pastries, empanadas or hot dogs. Fast food is everywhere too and they have all the usual big worldwide names. Street food here is good and its nice to be able to get good cheap food wherever you are in the city. Its cheap to eat here on the whole. So yes Dad - I am eating. In other posts I will go into what typical Medellin or Paisa food is like.

Typical Fruit Stand




Are there any Shopping Centers?
Again yes. Bigger and better than anything Cork has. Shopping Malls are found in most neighborhoods  and have all the larger chain stores. Some are very impressive - my favorite is Santa Fe which has a different theme every few months where they fill the large central area with - a massive ball pool, inflatable slides or golf course. In the Centro you can find anything you need - literally there are 50 places that specialise in anything you could imagine - from balloons to baby Jesus statues. Prices in the Centro are cheaper and street stalls are everywhere - here you might have to haggle and face the annoying prospect of Gringo Prices.
Ballllls



Are there any Yanks?
Yes - of course. Medellin is a pretty popular place for the Yanks to retire. Most live in El Poblado - the most popular neighborhood for tourists and expats - where there are home comforts of KFC, McDonalds and Hard Rock Cafe. Property prices are the most expensive in Medellin but you get great views and luxurious living. Of course a number of these retirees fit the old, ignorant and not speaking a word of Spanish role.

They must be fine dancers are they?
Annoyingly Yes! Never listen to a Colombian who tells you they cant dance - they are liars. All they need is the Salsa music or Vallenato to kick in and the hips get going. Kids to old pensioners always succeed in making me feel bad about myself. Im Irish - we dont do dancing - and if we do its limited to a hand in the air, or feeding the chickens. I've been forced to try Salsa dancing - and almost dislocated my hip. We don't have that Latin blood - and breaking into a full Lord of the Dance routine isn't going to  save us.



Do all the girls look like that one Shakira?
I fall in love about every 5 minutes walking on the streets here. The Colombians are a good looking bunch of people - in Medellin especially. They are very image conscious and look after themselves. Sometimes I feel I'm in a Colgate commercial when I walk around - everyone has perfect, bright white teeth - thanks in no small part to the fact dental treatments are really cheap. Medellin is also regarded as the 'Plastic Surgery Capital of South America' - so yep - bit boobs, big booties. This can cause problems on the metro when one person takes up the space for 3 or 4 people. And the current Miss Universe is Colombian...its a tough life here.

Why am I in Colombia????


Where would you go on a a weekend?
Medellin has lots of cool stuff to see and do. Plaza Botero (square with Botero's statues of fat people), Pueblito Paisa (miniature old styled town with nice views of city), Parque Explora (science world), Parque Arvi (park in the hills where you can camp and trek) are just a few. Also on weekends people usually go to the beautiful little towns or Pueblitos outside of the city. A lot of people have holiday houses or fincas in these places and go to enjoy the nature or just chill out by the swimming pool. For people in Medellin - these fincas are the equivalent of Irish people having a holiday home in Spain. A couple of my favorite pueblos are Santa Fe de Antioquia and Guatape. Guatape is really cool and has a monolith (a big rock) with amazing views of the lakes.

Botero Statues


La Piedra de Guatape


Are they into their fitness?
People here in Medellin are crazy about sport and fitness. Its reminds me a lot of Vancouver in this way. As they are image conscious, people put a lot of money and time into fitness. Gyms here are expensive - a lot more than Canada and Ireland - and Crossfit and Crossfit ripoffs are everywhere. Also there are open air gyms or barras (bars) in most neighborhoods where people can exercise for free. I go to Unidad Deportiva Belen which is a big open air gym which has swimming pools and sports courts and pitches. Its free and has pretty good equipment. It basically resembles a prison exercise yard - but I like it there. The novelty of being able to exercise in the sun has not worn off yet. Here the people like to show off - its almost compulsory for the guys to work out shirtless - I up to now have saved the people of Medellin of having to look at the pastey Irish skin!

Belen Outdoor Gym


Football and Cycling are the two most popular sports. In the Estadio neighborhood you can find the massive football stadium, basketball and tennis courts, the Olympic sized swimming pools, gymnastics halls and lots more. A lot of these are free to use and its an amazing facility for the people here. Although to use the swimming pool you have to use lycra speedos - another one I'll save the people in having to see.

Every Sunday, the city closes a number of the main streets for the Ciclovia. Everybody gets out with family and friends to run, cycle and rollerblade in the streets. Its really nice to see everyone out on the streets and there are stands selling fruits and juices for people to enjoy. Its a bit different from Irish Sunday mornings where we are in more hangover recovery mode than exercise in the sun mode.

Could you get Barry's Tea?
Unfortunately no :( But Colombia is world renowned for coffee. This was an exciting thing for me when I arrived as I have a serious caffeine addiction. Im not gonna lie - some of it is shite. But you can find some good coffee here. Juan Valdez is their equivalent of Starbucks and a large black coffee is about $1.50 and its good quality. There are also a few really good coffee places here. You cant walk 50 meters on the street without finding someone selling tintos (black coffee) - whether its somebody walking with a flask, pushing a trolley full of coffee flasks or a little hole in the wall. Tinto is served in a small plastic cup  and is about $0.20. Its hit or miss on the streets and you usually will be given about 6 sugars for this small coffee - they are maniacs for sugar.
Tinto Cart


It's full of cocaine I suppose?
Ah yes this old stereotype. Its a big city - of course there is. But Medellin doesnt have Pablo Escobar's buddies with sacks of white powder on every street corner - like the image we seem to have outside. People say that all the cocaine and coffee gets exported - the good stuff especially. I am rarely offered any on the street. Plus people who come here just for cocaine are stupid basically, as I've heard stories of people getting set-up by Police and dealers - especially around the tourist areas. Do yourself a favor and enjoy Colombia and ignore the stereotypes. Smoking weed is more popular in Medellin - its usually overlooked by police and people smoke openly in parks.

Do they have anything like Bus Eireann?
Public transport here is really good. They have a modern, cheap, safe and efficient Metro system which has two lines. Its less than a $1 per trip and is probably the best Metro I have ever used - a hundred times better than New York Subway. Medellin's metro is a source of pride for everybody here. Because of this people respect it - no graffiti, no sales people, no shouting or loud music. The Metro also has cablecars which go up to the poorer areas of the city in the hills. One of the aims of transport here is that everybody in the city - whether in the richest neighborhood or the poorest favela pays the same price to get around the city. The views from these Metrocables are also beautiful.

Cablecars with Medellin in background


Taxis and buses are everywhere on the streets. Its a bit crazy to see the amount of buses sometimes - colourful collectivos speed crazily around every area. You can pretty much get everywhere in one of these - although the ride can sometimes be like being on a rollercoaster. They also usually look like something out of Pimp My Ride.
Pimp My Bus

You can flag a bus down wherever you want and get off wherever you like too. They can get really packed in rush hours! And the drivers are crazy bastards. Its amazing there aren't more crashes but it works and gets you where you need to be.


Would they have anything like the Jazz Festival?

They don't have a Jazz Festival unfortunately. But every August, Medellin welcomes thousands of tourists for the Feria de Las Flores. Its a week long party/piss-up basically - lots of music, exhibitions and parades. The highlight is the Desfile or Parade of the Silleteros (the flower growers from the town of Santa Elena on the hills outside Medellin). Each silletero walks the length of the city carrying amazing flower arrangements on their backs - this is a really cool sight.





But also a bit cruel to see 80 year old women carrying about 20kgs on their back in the baking midday sun. 



They also build massive animals out of flowers - whats not to like.



So I hope you have a bitter picture of what Medellin is like. So no Dad...I don't live in a wild west town!

Sunday, 10 May 2015

How did I end up here??

Good question......I get asked on a daily basis why I am living here in Medellin...to be honest it wasnt meant to be this way. Lets start from the beginning.



Medellin View

After my quarter life crisis at 25, I decided to quit the exciting world of 8 hours a day of wishing my life away on Microsoft Excel - maybe including an hour or two of watching funny YouTube videos and a few episodes of Kenan and Kel - and decided to take a year out to travel the world...and "find myself maaan" (*hippy voice*). 

In this time I had already decided I would find life inspiration and basically figure out the rest of my life. This didnt happen...but the year was great. In June 2011 I took off from Cork and 12 months and a few continents and many Euros (and kilos unfortunately) later I ended up in Medellin, Colombia. It has to be pointed out that I didnt plan on visiting Colombia, but I happened to meet an Irish girl in New Zealand who managed to convince me that I should try and squeeze it in - and I couldnt leave another Paddy down.

There was something exciting about being in Colombia - first was that it had a bad rep.....and wasn't a definite stop on the world's Gringo Trail. Thailand, Cambodia, Oz, New Zealand, Peru and Bolivia are all regular stops on the round-the-world trip and they have the must-dos, and are full of other travelers. Colombia on the other hand was a country which didnt really have a must-see sight (no Machu Picchu or Salt Flats) and from a European point of view was more notorious for white powder and getting shot than taking shots on white sand beaches.  Also when I told my mother that I was going to visit Colombia, that Irish mother optimism took hold and she was convinced I would be shot as I took my first step off the plane - Im sure plenty of candles were lit in the church in the following days.

But I had always had a soft spot for Colombia - ever since Faustino Asprilla rocked into Newcastle and started doing somersaults after scoring! (His face arriving in December in the snow of the north of England on Sky Sports is one I see on the face of my friends here when the temperature drops below 20 degrees). So here I was in Medellin in May 2012 - the last country on my trip - aka the country where I would buy all my souvenirs :)


Golllllll
Tino thinking what the fuck


There was something about Medellin from the moment I arrived. The city of Medellin is in a valley in the state of Antioquia. The international airport is about  40 minutes outside the city and the bus trip from Rio Negro to the city is beautiful. When the view of the city came in to sight - it was pretty special. The huge green hills on either side gave way to a sprawling site of colours - from the high view point it seemed everything was orange ( I still felt the same amazement when i took this trip from the airport for 3rd time about a month ago). 






I spent about 5 days in Medellin, really enjoyed it, saw some cool stuff and met some great people. My month in Colombia was a great way to finish my trip - Cartagena, Salento and Parque Tayrona were some of the highlights of my 12 month trip and leaving Bogota en route home I had realised it was a great country and had so much to offer - great people, a diversely beautiful country full of amazing beaches, mountains, cities and rainforests. I also patted myself on the back that I had took the chance to visit here. 


Salento

Cartagena

Parque Tayrona




So in January of 2013 there I was in Vancouver - working as a barman in Earls - a big restaurant famous for Wing Wednesday and hot servers/waitresses. I had been In Vancouver about 10 months and  was enjoying it - work was good, met great people and the cash tips were very nice. I decided I needed a break after all that stress of working for 10 months and planned another trip towards South America. I would fly into Medellin - basically because it was really cheap to fly here from the States and then move onto Ecuador - the country I skipped first time around. I had began looking at what I would do there - seeing Quito and diving in the Galapagos Islands. So yea...4 nights would be spent in Medellin - to see a few friends I had kept in contact with and plan the trip south to the border and into Ecuador.

Well 4 nights turned into 6 months!!!




It had began with lazyness really - after  4 days I decided I would stay the week - then that stretched to two weeks to allow myself the time to plan. After that I strangely began to feel something telling me I should stay. I mean it was crazy right...staying here...What would I do? Where would I live? What would people think? What about Ecuador? But sometimes what seems crazy is actually your gut telling you to do something. For a few days I was a bit of a mess - drawing up lists of positives and negatives as to why I should be in Medellin and not Vancouver. In the end I decided to go with my gut - and it ended up turning out so well - and I kind of fell in love with this place.

So after that de-tour lets get back to the question I get asked at least twice daily - Why are you in Medellin? I think I have already ranted on long enough so for this post Im gonna try to make it as simple as possible and break it down to three main points. 



People:


The People here or the Paisas (Paisa = person from Antioquia, the state where Medellin is located) are ridiculously friendly and welcoming. Ireland is renowned world wide for its welcome - but compared to here we give the kind of welcome a water meter installer gets in Ireland these days. People here are happy, positive and proud - three words I wouldn't describe the Irish as these days. Even when you get on the bus everyone shouts "Buenas Tardes" or "Good Afternoon".  On a few occassions within 5 minutes of entering the local shops or tiendas I had been already offered - Sunday dinner for the rest of my stay, a laundry and ironing service free of charge (because I couldnt be doing it myself) and a few daughters to marry. And these are just a few examples. 

People here are still amazed and proud that visitors come here - and more that some from Europe would want to live here. It has to be remembered that Medellin was a really dangerous and depressing place only 15 years ago - we all know about the cartels, Pablo Escobar, the murder of footballer Andres Escobar, assassinations of politicians and bombs - but thats in the past. 


Botero Statue where bomb killed a number of people in the 90s.


When I tell people I live in Colombia - 9 times out of 10 people react by saying - "Isnt it really dangerous?" In short - No! Every big city in the world has problems and crime - I lived in East Hastings Street area of Vancouver and that was a pretty interesting place. Theres crime in Cork too. Sure theres a bit more risk here - I'm not gonna lie. I will get into more detail about daily life here in another blog! But in short - yes it is safe and the people are amazing  and yes the women are ridiculously hot!!


Celebrating World Cup win v Uruguay


Climate:


Medellin is known as the City of Eternal Spring or "Eterna Primavera" - which in lay mans terms means the weather is pretty sweet all year round - and also differs from Cork - City of Eternal Drizzle and Vancouver - Rain-Couver. The climate is amazing - always short sleeve weather - most days are about 22-25 degrees and "cold" for here is about 15 degrees. Sure it rains a bit as it's in a valley - but the rain is heavy and lasts a few hours - and afterwards you know its gonna be sunny and warm again - unlike Cork and Vancouver where weeks of depressing rain can pass by without any relief. Medellin also doesn't have the humidity and sauna like feeling of Cartagena (beautiful city on Caribbean coast) which makes it more liveable for a pasty skinned Irish.


Culture: 


I'm gonna be brief on culture as again I'll get into more detail on it in the future, but there is something really cool about Latin American culture - its relaxed, optimistic and everyone is making the best they can of their lives. The culture here is really different to Europe and Canada...in the beggining theres the culture shock for sure. There aren't millions of laws and permits - you can drink where you want, sell stuff where you want, find food on every street corner and find a party/music/dancing without having to walk more than a few blocks. Colombia is a country that is passionate about everything they do - whether its screaming on the football team or spending a Sunday casually lounging in the park with the family having ice-cream - when they do something they do it right!





So why Medellin??? All of the reasons above and probably more importantly - "Por Que No?" - "Why Not!" 

In this blog I am gonna try and share my opinions on life here and in the end I hope everyone will be booking a ticket to come here and visit...Por Que No? right !?!
Medellin - Everyone for Life